Yogyakarta: Java’s cultural heart

Yogyakarta, or Yogya for short, is a city in Central Java. known as the cultural heart of Java. Yogya offers travelers a unique experience to explore traditional Javanese culture and history. From historical sites such as the Kraton and the former Sultan's Water Palace and museums to local markets and culinary highlights.

 

For example, have you ever had coffee with a glowing block of charcoal? Or do you know that traditional dish only made more popular by a Netflix documentary on street food? In this travel blog, you'll find some tips for an authentic cultural experience in Yogyakarta. From visiting 2 beautiful temples to discovering local art.

How to get to Yogyakarta?

Yogyakarta has its own province, located under Central Java, about 560 KM from the capital Jakarta. Yogyakarta has its own airport with several intercontinental flights. The most common, however, is by train:

 

Train tickets in Java are more than affordable! For the ride from Malang to Yogyakarta, I paid IDR 240,000 (€16) for Ekonimi Class, while the ride from Yogyakarta to Malang cost IDR 250,000. Buying a ticket is easy on Tiket.com, after which you have to redeem your E-ticket at one of the counters at the station for a paper ticket.

    Hosteltip: Wonderloft Hostel Yogya

    There is no shortage of luxury hotels in Yogyakarta, but while backpacking I prefer hostels. So I stayed in Yogyakarta at the Wonderloft Hostel Yogya, located about a 35-minute walk from the famous Jalan Malioboro. Very friendly staff, plenty of room to socialize and nice beds in an otherwise fine sleeping area. And all that for only €6.00 per night!

    What to do in Java's cultural heart Yogya

    Sunrise Borobudur

    Despite Java being about 90% Muslim today, the island is home to the world's largest Buddhist temple: the Candi Borobudur. For me, seeing the sunrise from Punthuk Setumbu near the temple was one of the highlights of my visit to Yogyakarta.

    To get there in time to see the sunrise you will have to leave from there no later than 03:30 as it is about an hour and fifteen minute drive. Once you arrive at the parking area of Punthuk Setumbu, it is a few minutes walk to the viewpoint. On the way, you can stop at one of the stalls for a cup of coffee or tea.

     

    After the sunrise, you may want to visit the nearby Chicken Church (opens at 07:00 and is pictured above on the left), and then head for Borobudur after breakfast.

     

    I myself was lucky and had a beautiful sunrise, despite the fact that a day before, the nearby Merapi volcano had erupted and dispersed quite a cloud of ash (which blew in the right direction for Borobudur).

     

    • Entrance fee: IDR 50,000 (€ 3.30)

     

    You can read more about visiting the Borobudur in this blog!

    Alun Alun Kidul

    Alun Alun Kidul is a well-known square in downtown Yogyakarta, and it is a special place where many local traditions and customs converge. One of these traditions is the "blind walk. Here you are challenged blindfolded to walk down a straight path that ends between the "twin trees," located in the center of the square.

     

    Locals believe this walk helps cleanse the mind and remove negative energies. Local legends suggest that completing the walk will bring good luck and prosperity.

     

    In the evening, the square comes alive and you can score a bite to eat at one of the numerous street food stalls and eat it on the lawn.

    Visit world's second largest Hindu Temple complex

    The Prambanan Temple complex is the second largest religious Hindu temple complex in the world. It is a magnificent example of Hindu architecture and, along with the Borobudur (Buddhism), is part of a unique piece of Java's historical heritage. Even though today some of it lies in ruins, what remains standing is an imposing sight.

     

    More information and tips for visiting the Prambanan Temple complex!

     

    Culinary delights of Yogyakarta

    Yogyakarta is also a culinary heart of Java, because in addition to countless Indonesian delicacies, you will also find some local specialties. The city has had its own episode in the Netflix Streetfood documentary series.

    • Gudeg

    Gudeg is a popular dish among locals and is considered one of Yogyakarta's iconic dishes. It is stewed jackfruit served with rice, egg and chicken (ayam) or beef (krecek), among other things. I liked it so much that I ate it 3 times during my stay in Yogyakarta.

     

    Tip: In Yogyakarta, there is a street with almost only gudeg restaurants. For this, go to Wijilan street, where I recommend you stop at Gudeg Yu Djum Wijilan 167.

    • Kopi Joss

    What starts out as an ordinary cup of Javanese ground coffee ends up with a burning red charcoal cube in it. The bubbling and crackling of the charcoal while serving is very soothing! The charcoal neutralizes the strong coffee flavor, and also has a healthy effect on stomach acid. Win-win!

     

    Tip: On Jalan Malioboro after sunset, you will find several Lesehans where you can enjoy a cup of Kopi Joss.

    • Bakso

    Bakso is a popular Indonesian meatball soup made from beef meatballs. These meatballs are cooked in a chicken or beef broth and served with noodles, vegetables and fried onions. Bakso is often served as a quick and nutritious meal at street stalls and is a favorite among locals.

     

    Tip: Es Buah PK & Bakso Sapi

     

    • Es Buah PK

    While you are at the above restaurant, try the shaved ice. This shaved ice is served with pineapple, jackfruit, sawo (sapodilla), grass jelly and a sweet syrup. A sweet, above all refreshing combo for a hot day!

     

    • Ronde Tape Susu

    An Indonesian drink with sticky rice balls filled with peanut paste, floating in hot milk with sweet ginger & lemongrass. Sweet, but also a strong flavor due to the ginger.

     

    Tip: Score a bowl around Atun Atun Tidul Square or near Beringharjo Market.

    • Lumpia Samijaya

    Located on the famous Malioboro shopping street is the Lumpia Samijaya stall. You can get spring rolls everywhere, but I found this one particularly flavorful.

     

    Stuffed with chicken, vegetables and quail eggs. Nice garlic and a little green chili to go with it, delicious!

    • Known from Netflix: Lupis!

    In Netflix's Streetfood episode, Ms. Mbah Satinem's Lupis came up. This episode is highly recommended, as it shows the passion with which she works daily to make the best Lupis. Getting up in the middle of the night is a habit, which makes you appreciate the food if only more.

    Lupis is a traditional Indonesian dessert made from sticky rice that is steamed and then served with coconut and brown sugar. It has a unique texture and a subtle flavor of pandan leaves, which are often used to flavor the dish and give it a green color.

     

    Mbah Satinem's stall is open from 05:30 to 09:00, so due to its popularity, you will have to get there early. You can also ask in your ho(s)tel if they know another good address, I was lucky that at my hostel the employee lived next door to a store. She was kind enough to bring me a bowl, for only €0.65!

     

    Beringharjo market

    The Beringharjo market, located one street before the famous Jalan Malioboro , is Yogyakarta's largest and oldest traditional market. It is a market bustling with life, especially in the morning when the fresh section gets underway.

     

    The market's bright green building is a beautiful blend of Javanese and Dutch architecture. Once inside, you'll find batik, fabrics and lots more clothing on the first floor. This is definitely your spot if you're still looking for a batik garment, such as a blouse or sarong.

     

    One floor up you are surrounded by the wonderful aromas of herbs, spices and fresh produce. For me, the best part of the market, because all that fresh fruit and fragrant spices will definitely make your taste buds come alive.

    Opening hours: 08:00-21:00, but the fresh section opens as early as 05:00.

    The clothing selection seems endless at times!

    Did you know that a "good" Nasi Goreng has about 30 spices?

    Shopping!
    Yogyakarta's most famous shopping and dining street is located on an imaginary line between Mount Merapi, the Kraton and the Indian Ocean. Jalan Malioboro used to be the ceremonial avenue that the sultan passed through on his way to and from the Royal Palace.

     

    Today, Jalan Malioboro is mostly lined with souvenir and batik stores, as well as several restaurants. The street really comes alive after sunset, when the Lesehans show up. Once the sun sets, the entire street is filled with these eateries where you sit cross-legged on the ground at a low table. Enjoy the music, a bite to eat and imagine yourself among the friendly locals. A good evening is guaranteed!

    Taman Sari

    Taman Sari, also known as the Water Castle, is a historic complex in the heart of Yogyakarta. Built in the 18th century as the personal water palace of the Sultan of Yogyakarta, it served as a place to relax, meditate and swim. Taman Sari also has some beautiful gardens, including the lotus pond and the flower garden.

     

    Unfortunately, the underground Mosque was not accessible, as I was told by several locals that it was temporarily closed (March '23).

    Guide? There are a few guides walking around who sometimes come and walk next to you and then start showing you around uninvited. Again, the question is how sincere they want to help you, as one guide I had also wanted to take me to one of his "best" Batik stores after 5 minutes.

     

    • Entrance fee: IDR 25,000 IDR (€ 1.60)

    Full of pride, the guide told us that he had had the pleasure of showing King Willem Alexander around, among others, as well as Mark Zückerberg who contributed to improved Wifi for the community around the Taman Sari water palace. Hence those murals.

    Kraton

    One of the highlights of visiting Yogyakarta is the Kraton Palace, the residence of the Sultan of Yogyakarta and the center of Javanese culture and history. Built in traditional Javanese architecture, the palace has a rich history and culture. The palace has several pavilions, museums and galleries where you can learn more about Javanese culture and history. On weekends, a music/dance show is held where you can watch a traditional Javanese dance.

     

    Periodically, special ceremonies are held to cleanse the sacred items in the royal collection. In the afternoon, when the palace is closed to visitors, you can also see women in traditional costumes reverently sprinkling water and flowers on the pillars and lighting incense to cleanse the Kraton of impure intentions and evil spirits.

     

    Periodiek worden speciale ceremonies gehouden om de heilige voorwerpen in de Koninklijke collectie te reinigen. s Middags, als het paleis gesloten is voor bezoekers, kan men ook vrouwen in traditionele klederdracht zien die eerbiedig water en bloemen op de pilaren sprenkelen en wierook aansteken om de Kraton te reinigen van onzuivere bedoelingen en kwade geesten.

      Opening hours:

      Monday - Thursday & Sunday: 08:30 - 12:30
      Friday - Saturday: 08:30 - 11:00

       

      Note: Especially on weekends, this place can be busier due to many local tourists and groups of students having cultural activities with their schools. I was there an hour after opening time (09:30) and by then it was very busy with mostly local tourists.

       

      • Entrance fee: IDR 25,000 (€ 1.60)

      Batik

      Batik is a traditional art form deeply rooted in Javanese culture and history. It is a decorative technique in which fabric is covered with wax and then dyed, leaving the pattern of the wax visible. Yogyakarta is a major center for batik production, and it is one of the most popular destinations for travelers interested in this art form.

      There are many different types of batik produced in Yogyakarta, including traditional patterns and modern designs. Making batik is a time-consuming and labor-intensive process, often still done by hand. It is fascinating to watch batik makers apply the wax to the fabric using a tjanting, a special tool that resembles a pen.

      If you are looking for a unique souvenir to take home, consider buying a piece of batik. It is not only a beautiful piece of textile, but also a valuable cultural heritage of Java.

       

      Note: In Yogyakarta, especially in the historic center, you will more often be accosted by locals, who will then have a brief chat with you and then proceed to their mission: to take you to a Batik store. The first time I still believed the best gentleman that he wanted to help me, but after experiencing the same thing a couple of times I don't believe in it anymore.

      Prawirotaman

      Prawirotaman is a lively neighborhood in Yogyakarta, located just south of the city center. The neighborhood is known for its charming, narrow streets lined with small cafes, restaurants and stores selling handmade crafts and batik fabrics. A stroll along Jalan Prawirotaman or Jalan Gerilya will undoubtedly take you to the nicest spots in Yogya.

      Say cheese!

      Prepare yourself, because in Yogyakarta you will get to smile for the camera more than once. For many young children, tourists are a strange sight, so they think it's only cool to have their picture taken with you. When I was at the Prambanan temple one afternoon, there were numerous children with their school at the temple and I got to smile a total of 15 times!

      How many nights in Yogyakarta?

      Personally chose 3 nights so I could visit the temples and have enough time to explore downtown. It was 2 full days, but I found it absolutely worth it. If you want to take it a little easier, 4 nights are also very fine, then you can relax a little more.

       

      From Yogyakarta to?

      • Bandung: 7-8 hours by train
      • Jakarta: 7 hours by train
      • Malang: 6 hours by train
      • Lumajang (Tumpak Sewu): 6 hours by train to Malang and 2 hours by scooter.